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are adjustable torque rods (240) really effective? 2007-2020 bump

not more rubbing

OK here is my take on is with some numbers for those who take my same route.

Bite the bullet and bought the adjustable Panhard rod and moved the car by 1/2 an inch towards the passenger side.

This is easier said than done, since I had no helper and needed to have acting forces to move it while I was down there trying to pierce the bolt in place, needed to make a jig with 2x4s and a Volvo scissor jack. Once finally done centering the car, it then would rub in both wheels wells.

Got to wor on the torque rods in order to try to see if this would help, but no luck either, the torque rods are linked to a bracket on top of the differential axle, and by the angle at the pinion these rods needed to be longer hence moving the wheels further back (where it was actually rubbing)... that discovery sucked for my enthusiasm. Anyway, here I will give you some numbers on how my angles changed just as an example for the future.

The Volvo stock driveshaft is split one, so I am still not completely sure what angles I need matching at this point to make this whole thing act as a CVJ, so I just went by the rule of thumbs saying you need about 2 degrees for pinion angle and the differential sloping slightly up in the rear so when the wheels hit the asphalt the counteracting forces will correct this angle closer as possible to cero. Of course, suspension action will make this change, but it will still remain in the happy numbers for everything to have a more efficient force transmission and less wear.

So from my first measurement, I was at 3.6 degrees @ pinion angle with the slope of the differential up @ the rear and about 0.6 degrees at the previous angle in the middle of the driveshaft with both segments of the driveshaft sloping down to the rear (the transmission output shaft was also slopping down, just so you know) I went 4 full turns (360 degrees) lengthening the torque rods and ended up then way too high in the diff nose ( can't remember exactly but by around the same amount than before just in the opposite direction) then I went to the blackboard and made some calculations that sent me in the direction of backing up 3 full turns and leave it at only one full turn longer than stock. After doing this I came up with 1.9 degrees with the differential sloping up in the rear and down in the "nose" the middle angle decreased to 0.4 degrees between the two segments of the driveshaft. This brings me very close to what I've read is the standard for a happy pinion angle. Making the holes align to get the bolts in this time was also a challenge and I did well too with the small scissor jack in different points where I could make the distances shorter or longer by an mm or two (the nose of the tranny or one specific wheel axle for example).

Just considering the fact that the best way to measure these angles is with the car in the floor and the car been so low reaching the shaft and the places to make an accurate measurement is quite difficult for those with just a garage and jacks and stands. I had to do this about 4 times! I was very glad when reached the right number for sure!


Any of this did not fix the rubbing, but that I already knew so I went and bought myself a fender roller from Eastwood for about 150USD after shipping and got to it, needless to say, this also proved to be a challenge (the rubber mud flaps bolt all snapped: 2 each side) and now I am having a hard time doing this for several reasons) the rolling also was challenging for a novice with this tool and even using a heat gun since we are in under 20 celsius here the heat might not be enough and paint cracking was happening, anyway, the wheels rubbing is gone now after the fenders are rolled only in their rear third segment where the rubbing was happening when the car bobbed deep in the suspension, but I have not yet put the mud flaps with their plastic trim yet and I hope these are not in the way otherwise I will have to go grinder on them and f@k it. Also, I mean to fill up the rolled lip with Bondo just so it does not collect all the salty slush from winter roads in there and makes the rust grow easier... just an idea.

My final conclusion is, if you lowered your car by the same amount of the IPD lowering (sports kit) are running Virgo or some 15" wheels with standard size tires and made it all tight with bushing work DO NOT PUT the 25mm wheel spacers in it will drag you through a lot of work to make this work alright, I would rather put that money toward the adjustable torque and Panhard rods to get things straight and safe the fender rolling nightmare and plus work still to be defined as I write these lines.

Thanks for reading.
 
If you lower a 240 in the rear and you are flush or sticking out a bit with your tires the rubbing is horrible because of the semi egg-shaped rear wheel well. I have this problem with gta wheels on my 245. Can't go any thinner on spacers and lip is rolled flat. It looks as if shorter torque rods would help gain clearance on the lip and center the wheel in the hole. Has anyone been able to remedy this with adjustable torque rods alone?
Shortening the torque rods might bring the wheels more towards the center but would also bring the pinion angle out of specs and a lot of problems can come from that, I imagine, with timings, etc at the rear wheel, not worth it. I ended up rolling my fenders and the rubbing was gone (25mm spacers and Virgos 15" rims with regular all-season tires on.)
good luck
 
I figured with a two piece driveshaft it would be more forgiving. Virgos aren't an issue. GTA wheels with their offset is another story. Lips are completely rolled. Aside from wide body idk what else to do.
 
I have at this point lowered and lifted 240s and suspension adjustability is a must to get everything right in the back. Also you are able to put the wheels right where you need the for looks too if so desired. Out of all the 240 suspensions I've done this one works the best and is very quiet. While still being fully adjustable. I'm working on another set of torque rods so these are just place holders for the time being! :).

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If you can weld this is much easier but into all these links I'll break down the price

3 sets of jack screws 50$
Poly bushings 70$
Johnny joints 130$
New trailing arms 89&

You can save a little here and there but this setup was able to center the wheels on my car perfect and fix my driveline vibration issues
 
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