oil cooler routing on a 240 +T

[autoloclys]

Im working on a slow moving +T project on my daily driver '92 240 wagon. I borrowed a set of quickjacks and want to hit as much of the under the car stuff while i have them. Already done the oil pan and motormounts.

Does anyone have any good pics or diagrams of how to route the hoses for an oil cooler? I am using volvo parts (sandwich plate) that will put the cooler in the place where the airbox is currently (stock location for a kjet turbo 240)

Since i haven't relocated the air intake yet, I was hoping to to a temporary mount behind the bumper, but want to be as close as possible to "correct" with the hoses on the first try.

[oldschoolvolvo]

Are you piecing together oil cooler components or did you pull an entire system from a 240T car or 740T car?

You certainly could do a temporary mounting behind the bumper, but that will be complicated if you are using the stock hardlines/flex hoses. The most flexible way to mount it is to ditch the stock hoses an use some AN fittings or cut the crimps off the stock fittings and use some good oil hose and double clamps. Then you can put the cooler wherever you want.

[autoloclys]

Its a 240T oil cooler setup, stock hard/flex lines

[dbarton]

http://www.240turbo.com/volvo240mods.html#oilcooler

I'm open to adding more to this if anyone has any.
Dave B.

[autoloclys]

very helpful!

Im assuming the support plate for the hard lines goes under the alternator bracket? thats the last bit i cant find great info on.

[TurboDenny]

Originally Posted by autoloclys

very helpful!

Im assuming the support plate for the hard lines goes under the alternator bracket? thats the last bit i cant find great info on.

Correct.

[Dadssleeper]

Originally Posted by dbarton

http://www.240turbo.com/volvo240mods.html#oilcooler

I'm open to adding more to this if anyone has any.
Dave B.

Originally Posted by dbarton

http://www.240turbo.com/volvo240mods.html#oilcooler

I'm open to adding more to this if anyone has any.
Dave B.

Sure you can use this one. For less then a hundred dollars shipped to your door you can get one off ebay with a thermostat adapter plate, lines and cooler.

I'll start with the most important ...The adapter plate. This is a smaller then usual adapter plate its nice because it will clear the hard lines , you will not be able to use the stock filter any longer but thats ok you can use one from a 6.0 chevy and its actually a bit longer and skinnier so it fits perfect. The filter I used has a back flow prevention aka check valve and also has a bypass valve. I recommend Motocraft filters but I installed a fram at the time because it was the only brand they had in stock.



As you can see in the above photo, the adapter plate just clears the hard line.



The photo above is a top view of the hard line, I did have to remove my line clamp from the turbo and pull the line towards the front of the car slightly to allow it to fit between the alternator and the adapter plate but 1/4 inch or so and you are in there like swim wear.

The hoses..I was not so hot on the nylon braided hoses but they are actually pretty nice. I was planning on making my own, but used these because they were not soft or as cheap as I imagined they would be for the price.

The cooler I just mounted in front of the radiator it did not come with mounting brackets so I had to make them but that was pretty simple , just bend the metal where you need it and drill holes.

[Dadssleeper]

Oh and here is a link to an oil cooler kit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/16-Row-AN10...53.m1438.l2649

[dbarton]

I would not have thought you could reach all the way to the front of the radiator with 1.4 and 1.6 meter long hoses. That's a pretty decent price for a complete kit.
Dave B.

[Dadssleeper]

Originally Posted by dbarton

I would not have thought you could reach all the way to the front of the radiator with 1.4 and 1.6 meter long hoses. That's a pretty decent price for a complete kit.
Dave B.

Oh plenty of line I could have shortened it a bit but like I said I was planning on making my own stainless steel braided lines so just used these for the time being. When I make new lines though they won't be much different.

In the kit they also have a line clamp , I think 2-3 of these would be ideal.




I could also have used another line clamp here, but I plan on securing my lines to the frame rail when I make new ones.

One other note is that the bottom bracket for the cooler is a tad bit trickier, just slightly instead of just a c shape you need to allow a tab to hang off so that it can be mounted...I can try and take better photos if you want.



Feel free to use my photos, info or anything else you would like. I frequently go to your site for this kind of thing.

BTW this set up will only work on 240's 700/900's have motor mount clearance issues.

[Dadssleeper]

Oh and the oil filter it will take is a Mann-ML-1005 or Motorcraft FL400 ...I have a Fram ph3600 on it now but there are many other filters that you can use. Fram suck don't use fram I had access to a huge line of fram so was able to experiment with frams for fitment reasons so used what I had. I was able to use their vehicle fitment info and competitor comparison chart to find many other filters so go there and find the filter manufacturer of your choice.

http://www.fram.com/parts-search/PH3...VtbfXQjUy-QLpA

[Redwood Chair]

Originally Posted by autoloclys

Im working on a slow moving +T project on my daily driver '92 240 wagon. I borrowed a set of quickjacks and want to hit as much of the under the car stuff while i have them. Already done the oil pan and motormounts.

Does anyone have any good pics or diagrams of how to route the hoses for an oil cooler? I am using volvo parts (sandwich plate) that will put the cooler in the place where the airbox is currently (stock location for a kjet turbo 240)

Since i haven't relocated the air intake yet, I was hoping to to a temporary mount behind the bumper, but want to be as close as possible to "correct" with the hoses on the first try.

Buy my D-jet airbox?

[Kestrel]

If you haven't relocated the airbox yet... how is this a +T project? The airbox more or less has to be located on the passenger side of the car for the +T. I used a Saab 900 airbox and filter, along with a few little creative patches.

I used the Volvo 240 OEM oil cooler kit when I dropped a 940 turbo engine into my 245. Radiator and intercooler is some odd combination from 7 series cars I think? and the stock oil cooler setup doesn't play perfectly well with the brackets and mounts on those, but there is space to angle it in. The factory location is angled similarly in that location by design, and catches the air behind the condenser but in front of the radiator. Don't mind the zip ties - this is TB, after all. Like I said, you can see where the bottom and top brackets don't fit due to clearance issues with the 740 intercooler. It WILL fit there, however, and you can devise some other way to hold it in place. Ideally you'd fill the also gap between the oil cooler and chassis to ensure proper flow. One day when I'm not busy, perhaps I'll do just that.

Here's a few hastily snapped poor quality pictures... Along with the photo above from TurboDenny, you should get a pretty good idea how how it can work.

[122power]

Coolant oil cooler

[Jack]

Originally Posted by 122power

Coolant oil cooler

This

The only benefit of air is that is still cools your engine enough to not blow HG when you run out of coolant - personal experience

[iHateVolvoPeople]

@DadSleeper awesome information man thank you. I have been in need of an oil cooler setup for a few years now but still haven’t done it. I had a factory 240T setup but couldn’t run it in the stock location because I had interference issues with my current intercooler setup.

So just to clarify, that cooler setup you linked is essentially a direct bolt on, correct? I was always worried about having a long enough stud to mount the sandwich plate on to. That and i was worried about it being the correct diameter to the block mating surface.

[Dadssleeper]

Originally Posted by PromiseRing

@DadSleeper awesome information man thank you. I have been in need of an oil cooler setup for a few years now but still havenÂ’t done it. I had a factory 240T setup but couldnÂ’t run it in the stock location because I had interference issues with my current intercooler setup.

So just to clarify, that cooler setup you linked is essentially a direct bolt on, correct? I was always worried about having a long enough stud to mount the sandwich plate on to. That and i was worried about it being the correct diameter to the block mating surface.

As long as you have the n/a stud then its bolt on. I used a turbo engine and it had a banjo bolt so had to extract the stud from an n/a car threads are the same though. lines are all an10 and there is no need to alter them like I stated above plenty long I even looped it around once in a very large loop.

The mounting , well thats not bolt on I went and bought a piece of steel (sheet metal) cut, bent, and drilled it and also had to paint after but it got the job done nice and didn't take to long but I am handy with metal and anyone who is will find its really easy.

On the block mating surface the surface are is so large on the 240 I think the wall in like an inch thick , I don't have all the measurements in front of me but I checked all that before hand and it fits great and no leaks.



I used the radiator and intercooler from a 92 740 so I had some clearance issue too ...I also had to do some handy metal work for that the larger 92 radiator and intercooler don't fit like that naturally. Then of coarse the 2 speed fan and relays.

[autoloclys]

slow moving as in, this weekends goals were change the oil pan to one with a welded drain fitting and add the oil cooler, then get it back on the road to drive to work. The next push, when i have another free weekend, is the rest of it.

Thanks for the pics, they will help a lot in putting the cooler and lines in. Going to try and use the 240T stuff i have for now

[iHateVolvoPeople]

Originally Posted by Dadssleeper

1 As long as you have the n/a stud then its bolt on.

2 The mounting , well thats not bolt on I went and bought a piece of steel (sheet metal) cut, bent, and drilled it and also had to paint after but it got the job done nice and didn't take to long but I am handy with metal and anyone who is will find its really easy.

3 On the block mating surface the surface are is so large on the 240 I think the wall in like an inch thick , I don't have all the measurements in front of me but I checked all that before hand and it fits great and no leaks.

1 my car is an NA-T conversion so it has the NA stud for the oil filter. This is good news. I would has assumed the turbo stud was needed for the extra length for the sandwich plate to be bolted to.

2 yeah I’m not worried about mounting the heat exchanger. Plenty of options there for location. Likely will be put low near the valence/air dam.

3 awesome! I didn’t know if since it was a Volvo, it would use some weird size sandwich plate making it difficult to find aftermarket coolers. IIRC some of the mustang sandwich plates fit? Anyway that is great news and I appreciate it. I will be ordering on sooner or later.

Lastly, I read their website and if I read correctly, it seems the sandwich plate has a built in thermostat for 176F. Is this hot enough to boil out moisture in the oil?

[Kestrel]

Water cooling your oil is certainly better than nothing, but it isn't going be able to remove heat on par with a larger surface area air cooled setup. Your average oil cooler seems to yield a 15-20 degrees F drop in oil temps.

Running the water cooled setup does have some advantages (warms up the coolant quicker), but... ultimately it also imposes a heavier load on the cooling system of the car.

With respect to the OEM thermostat on the oil cooler setup... that's just the temperature it OPENS at. You're not going to keep oil temps at 176F - they'll be higher during steady state running conditions.

Generic run down on air vs water can be found here... Obviously, mounting the cooler in a place that maximizes airflow while not dumping its thermal load into the radiator/intercooler is the best solution.

https://www.verus-engineering.com/si...-A-Deeper-Look

[iHateVolvoPeople]

Originally Posted by Kestrel

Water cooling your oil is certainly better than nothing, but it isn't going be able to remove heat on par with a larger surface area air cooled setup. Your average oil cooler seems to yield a 15-20 degrees F drop in oil temps.

Running the water cooled setup does have some advantages (warms up the coolant quicker), but... ultimately it also imposes a heavier load on the cooling system of the car.

With respect to the OEM thermostat on the oil cooler setup... that's just the temperature it OPENS at. You're not going to keep oil temps at 176F - they'll be higher during steady state running conditions.

At the end of the day, airflow is the final dictator of heat dissipation. With water to oil, you’re relying on your radiator to be able to dissipate heat from the coolant which in turn cools the oil.

With air to oil, you are still relying on airflow (and a little convection) to remove heat from the oil.

Depending on driving style and hp and climate, water to oil makes the most sense. Oil gets up to temp faster which is better for the engine.

[oldschoolvolvo]

Originally Posted by Dadssleeper

As long as you have the n/a stud then its bolt on.

To clarify further...the Volvo OE sandwich plate requires a LONGER stud in the oil filter location. It appears that you are using an alternate solution where the SHORTER n/a stud will work.

I only bring this up because in my +T conversion, I needed to remove the stock n/a B21 stud and replace it with a longer OE stud in order to use the OE sandwich plate.

OP...do you also have the OE 240T sandwich plate?

See middle of this pic:

[autoloclys]

I am using the OE volvo setup. I got it with the longer stud to replace whats on my car now.

Current plan is to remove stock airbox, install oil cooler in stock location, put a pod on the end of the MAF and let everyone make fun of me for it for a few weeks until I can finish the +T.

I am confident I have all the correct bits, im just making my life more complicated by not doing everything at once. But such is life when you have 2 kids and commute to work in your project car!

[Dadssleeper]

Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo

To clarify further...the Volvo OE sandwich plate requires a LONGER stud in the oil filter location. It appears that you are using an alternate solution where the SHORTER n/a stud will work.

I only bring this up because in my +T conversion, I needed to remove the stock n/a B21 stud and replace it with a longer OE stud in order to use the OE sandwich plate.

OP...do you also have the OE 240T sandwich plate?

See middle of this pic:

Yes the adapter plate comes with a threaded nipple adapter that secures the adapter plate to the block and will do that because it is threaded both male and female. Once it is snug to the block the adapter will show male threads that are 3/4-16 thread just like the standard thread of the stock nipple. You need to down size the diameter of your oil filter to a 3" filter with 3/4-16 threads and that will give you a whole lot of options. I listed a few above and prefer the motorcraft filter its built with good quality parts and has a bypass valve in it so when I need to start my car in the -20 or colder days I know thick oil and a clogged filter won't be an issue, or even high rpms where the pump over supplies the filter for some reason even though its not likely to happen its a piece of mind.

[nolift911]

So I am adding a T to my 92 NA 240 wagon...oil cooling is new to the topics I have been researching when adding a T to an NA car. Not opposed to it just didn't know it was a thing, needed, nice to have etc? Getting tougher to find parts in the yards...what is a good bolt on kit to get if necessary? Can I add the cooler just on its own to my NA motor? Was trying to having everything set parts wise so i could bang out the install in a long weekend...right now I got most of my stuff from a 740, just ordered some orange tops on here as well.

My laundry list of stuff I need for a cheap and easy +T is growing and my parts room is getting full...

Please educate...

Thanks