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Old 05-09-2021, 12:39 PM   #1
bjorny
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Default I'm not dead, but my 240 seems to be

So yeah, after 3 years i decided to post something here again because quite frankly i'm a bit at a loss.

I've been dailying my T-5R for some years now without any problems. Previously i drove my '89 240 GLT B230F daily. Since i hardly drove it anymore it has been in storage for about 2 years or so. I've decided the time had come to sell it. But alas, i cannot sell a non-running car, especially because it was running fine when i put it inside the garage.

My first suspicion was the fuel pump because that made a sketchy sound when i tried starting it. So switched that out because i needed to drain the old fuel out of the tank anyway so it made sense.

That was the start of my detective journey. Mind you, i'm not a great home mechanic so i make do with the knowledge that i have combined with my Haynes and my P.H. Olving manual.

I did this in chronological order:

-Fuel pump change: pump works fine, i have fuel up to the injector rail.
-Coil change: No start.
-Fuel relay under the dash: changed it even though it seemed fine. No start.
-Did diagnostics: no error codes. Injectors are audible and they measure 16 Ohm.
-I had no spark so i changed the plugs, the rotor, cap and wires. No start and turns out i still have no spark...
-Under hood fuses are fine. Dash/door fuses also fine.
-I have 12V at the coil.

I'm fine with changing out all the stuff i did because it all adds to a basic service anyway that i can mention in the ad when i sell it.

I did a lot of research online and i keep coming back to the same things: the ICM that's located near the headlight and the crank position sensor. Also, but i'm dreading that, the ECU...

Any tips on some things i can eliminate from a possible list of things in a relatively easy way before i resort to taking it to a professional?

I'm well aware there might be a thread that was posted before but a search reveals a mountain of threads to sift through.

Thanks in advance. Hope everyone is well.

Bjorn
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Old 05-09-2021, 02:52 PM   #2
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CPS would cause you to get no injection pulse too so ide say your safe their. Assuming by audible you mean you can hear them click as someone cranks.

If it only sat for 3 years and "ran when parked" ide clean all the connectors and fuses before replacing anything
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Old 05-09-2021, 03:03 PM   #3
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by 'audible' i actually meant that you can hear them in the diagnostics routine with the LEDs. i haven't listened to them while cranking because i'm doing this mostly by myself...
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Old 05-09-2021, 03:13 PM   #4
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i just noticed the wiring of the CPS looks really dodgy. the outer insulation is torn at some places. i don't see any bare wiring though. haven't been able to take it completely out because it seems really stuck.
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Old 05-09-2021, 04:00 PM   #5
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Does the tach move at all when cranking? If it doesn’t, it’s probably the CPS.

You can try wiggling the wiring for the CPS and see if it’ll start.
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Old 05-09-2021, 05:56 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by bjorny View Post
Since i hardly drove it anymore it has been in storage for about 2 years or so

-I had no spark so i changed the plugs, the rotor, cap and wires. No start and turns out i still have no spark...

by 'audible' i actually meant that you can hear them in the diagnostics routine with the LEDs. i haven't listened to them while cranking because i'm doing this mostly by myself...
Timing belt snapped?
Take off the distributor cap and note the position of the rotor.
Or take off the oil cap and look at the camshaft.
Turn the engine a bit (key or wrench) and see if they changed position.
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Old 05-09-2021, 09:03 PM   #7
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Gonna be much easier with a helper, you can pull a plug wires off, the oil cap off and put a noid light on an injector plug to check most of the common stuff at once.

If you arnt getting spark or injection pulse then CPS would be a solid bet if your gonna
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Watching the tac as mentioned is a good method to rule out a CPS
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Old 05-10-2021, 04:56 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by MasterBlaster View Post
Timing belt snapped?
Take off the distributor cap and note the position of the rotor.
Or take off the oil cap and look at the camshaft.
Turn the engine a bit (key or wrench) and see if they changed position.
camshaft goes round, i checked through the fuel cap opening.

i'll do that rotor check, thanks.
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Old 05-10-2021, 04:58 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by D.E View Post
Does the tach move at all when cranking? If it doesn’t, it’s probably the CPS.

You can try wiggling the wiring for the CPS and see if it’ll start.
i'll get someone to help and look for it. thanks.
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Old 05-10-2021, 10:15 AM   #10
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Once you get done whippin' Batman's ass, look into the crank sensor, before the vampire birds get you.
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Old 05-10-2021, 11:33 AM   #11
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Once you get done whippin' Batman's ass, look into the crank sensor, before the vampire birds get you.
will do because right now it's putting me on a hell ride whilst i prefer a harmony joyride.

cruisin' on the rock 'n roll superhighway.
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Old 05-10-2021, 08:51 PM   #12
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Do you have a test lamp?
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Old 05-11-2021, 03:15 AM   #13
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Do you have a test lamp?
sadly, no. i'll ask around with my colleagues to see if they have one. haven't been able to do any checks so far because it's been really busy at work and i'm knackered when i get home. long extended weekend ahead so fingers crossed i can work on it then.
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Old 05-16-2021, 10:31 PM   #14
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sadly, no. i'll ask around with my colleagues to see if they have one. haven't been able to do any checks so far because it's been really busy at work and i'm knackered when i get home. long extended weekend ahead so fingers crossed i can work on it then.
You can make one with a turn signal bulb socket

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