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1979 242DL - Analog Motoring
- Thread starter oldschoolvolvo
- Start date
oldschoolvolvo
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2004
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
Nice fix on the steering rack! It was a really nice day and I'm so glad you made the ride. Your car is one of my favorites.
Thanks!
oldschoolvolvo
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2004
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
Was a nice weekend for a drive here in PA.
Also realized that the high idle issue I was having was my own fault. The way I had the vacuum hoses routed on my catch can setup was inadvertently causing LH to think there was a vacuum leak and triggering a high idle after a period of time. I re-routed the hose and idle has been stable since.
Stopped by a VCOA meet at Lehman Volvo in York, PA.
This 242 took the cake for me...didn't catch the owner at the meet...anyone on here?
cool overland XC70
Some nice newer Polestar cars too, but we all know what they look like
Also realized that the high idle issue I was having was my own fault. The way I had the vacuum hoses routed on my catch can setup was inadvertently causing LH to think there was a vacuum leak and triggering a high idle after a period of time. I re-routed the hose and idle has been stable since.
Stopped by a VCOA meet at Lehman Volvo in York, PA.
This 242 took the cake for me...didn't catch the owner at the meet...anyone on here?
cool overland XC70
Some nice newer Polestar cars too, but we all know what they look like
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- Joined
- May 11, 2007
- Location
- Niketown, OR
Wonder whether that red 242 is the one that Ole Kittleson put together a bunch of years ago.
Yours looks lovely as usual.
Yours looks lovely as usual.
oldschoolvolvo
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2004
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
Decided to chase an annoying 35-40 mph low frequency driveline vibration over the weekend. Pinion angle was ok, but turns out the driveshaft is a little out of balance. I used the old "hose clamp on the driveshaft" trick to pretty much eliminate the vibration. Took a little trial and error, but it worked.
- Joined
- May 11, 2007
- Location
- Niketown, OR
How do you find the angle of the dangle?
doucheNozzle
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2009
- Location
- The Pitt, 15147
Car is sweet
oldschoolvolvo
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2004
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
Installed a Mishimoto 16" electric fan.
Wired it per a dbarton schematic and put an override switch in the dash.
The thermo switch in the radiator is a "92/82" temp range.
Normal driving the temp gauge needle is at the bottom of the "N" and when idling it gets to about the top of the "N" and then the fan kicks on for 30-60 sec and brings it back down (Edit: in ~80F ambient temps the fan takes ~120 sec to cool down).
When running, the fan isn't much louder than the engine which is nice.
Wired it per a dbarton schematic and put an override switch in the dash.
The thermo switch in the radiator is a "92/82" temp range.
Normal driving the temp gauge needle is at the bottom of the "N" and when idling it gets to about the top of the "N" and then the fan kicks on for 30-60 sec and brings it back down (Edit: in ~80F ambient temps the fan takes ~120 sec to cool down).
When running, the fan isn't much louder than the engine which is nice.
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adomz
I own!
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2010
- Location
- Lost in Wales...
Oh it sounds good! 
oldschoolvolvo
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2004
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
Replaced the OE fuel pumps with a single in-tank unit.
The OE main pump would buzz with the tank ~1/4 full and hot ambient temps. Had been doing it every summer for a while and never affected how the car ran, but I wanted to simply the system anyway. Ended up being a lot more "fiddly" than I was expecting. Especially since I accidentally knocked off the float level unit and had to figure out how to re-attach that.
Initially had a 6AN fitting brazed onto the sending unit, but the braze had a few pores and leaked so I went with the DW 90* fitting. Sending unit needed a lot of trimming to get the cable gland and bulkhead fitting to attach properly.
Rewired the pump based on dbarton's recommendations.
12AWG wire from battery to pump
Dedicated SPST relay triggered by the LH relay.
Fuel pump: Bosch 69693 (Volvo x70 application)
90* bulkhead: Deatchworks 6-02-0712
Compression fitting for OE hard line: Earl's 165056ERL
Connector in trunk: Deutch DTP (2-pos)
Cable gland: TE EP-SGL-M16-GR-F
Wiring into the tank: GXL automotive wire
**EDIT: Make sure J30R10 hose is used. NAPA usually carries this, my local AAP / AZ do not. You can also buy Gates 27093 on Amazon. Yes it is expensive. Beware of eBay sellers claiming short sections of J30R10 hose. I had to replace this hose within a few hundred miles due to a hose that apparently wasn’t as advertised on eBay. It shrunk significantly and pulled off of the pump dropping the fuel pressure.
Also, every time I have to pull up the carpet in the trunk, I regret using the Eastwood sound deadening product on the floor...SMH, so messy.
The OE main pump would buzz with the tank ~1/4 full and hot ambient temps. Had been doing it every summer for a while and never affected how the car ran, but I wanted to simply the system anyway. Ended up being a lot more "fiddly" than I was expecting
. Especially since I accidentally knocked off the float level unit and had to figure out how to re-attach that.Initially had a 6AN fitting brazed onto the sending unit, but the braze had a few pores and leaked so I went with the DW 90* fitting. Sending unit needed a lot of trimming to get the cable gland and bulkhead fitting to attach properly.
Rewired the pump based on dbarton's recommendations.
12AWG wire from battery to pump
Dedicated SPST relay triggered by the LH relay.
Fuel pump: Bosch 69693 (Volvo x70 application)
90* bulkhead: Deatchworks 6-02-0712
Compression fitting for OE hard line: Earl's 165056ERL
Connector in trunk: Deutch DTP (2-pos)
Cable gland: TE EP-SGL-M16-GR-F
Wiring into the tank: GXL automotive wire
**EDIT: Make sure J30R10 hose is used. NAPA usually carries this, my local AAP / AZ do not. You can also buy Gates 27093 on Amazon. Yes it is expensive. Beware of eBay sellers claiming short sections of J30R10 hose. I had to replace this hose within a few hundred miles due to a hose that apparently wasn’t as advertised on eBay. It shrunk significantly and pulled off of the pump dropping the fuel pressure.
Also, every time I have to pull up the carpet in the trunk, I regret using the Eastwood sound deadening product on the floor...SMH, so messy.
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oldschoolvolvo
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2004
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
Looks like the ol' brake line octopus is starting to weep around the electrical switch
I believe the failure mode is that the small o-rings that seal each brake circuit are leaking and allowing fluid to leak past the threads of the switch
I believe my options are:
1) try to rebuild the current unit (should be straight-forward IF I can remove the end plugs with the unit in the car)
2) replace with '91 junction block 3540084 if I can find one (as well as any stubborn brake lines)
3) replace with standard unit 1273052 and any stubborn brake lines
- Joined
- May 11, 2007
- Location
- Niketown, OR
Option 2 for sure
Looks like the ol' brake line octopus is starting to weep around the electrical switch
I believe the failure mode is that the small o-rings that seal each brake circuit are leaking and allowing fluid to leak past the threads of the switch
I believe my options are:
1) try to rebuild the current unit (should be straight-forward IF I can remove the end plugs with the unit in the car)
2) replace with '91 junction block 3540084 if I can find one (as well as any stubborn brake lines)
3) replace with standard unit 1273052 and any stubborn brake lines
dl242gt
The world of the smiling Dogo
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2002
- Location
- S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
I believe Eric of Hiperfauto mentioned they are selling rebuilt warning light valves.
I have to say I really enjoyed reading through this project thread. Makes me long for simpler times when I had my own 16v NA 242.... I still can... just have to lose several cylinders.
Did have a question... in this image... the large nut on the bottom of the Deatcchworks bulkhead fitting seems much larger than what's shown in the part image on summit racing... did you swap it out for a different one or is that the one included in the kit?
Also... are the copper compression washers included or is that something else you added?
Thanks.
Did have a question... in this image... the large nut on the bottom of the Deatcchworks bulkhead fitting seems much larger than what's shown in the part image on summit racing... did you swap it out for a different one or is that the one included in the kit?
Also... are the copper compression washers included or is that something else you added?
Thanks.
oldschoolvolvo
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2004
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
Thanks!
I think it is an optical illusion on the original pic. Here is another for reference. I used the included bulkhead nut.
I did however add my own copper washers because 1) the hole I drilled was a little oversized and 2) I needed to space the outlet of the fitting "up" so that I could thread on the mating hose fitting after the sending unit is installed in the tank.
oldschoolvolvo
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2004
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
24v whiteblock is alive!
Need to finish tidying up the wiring, but took it on a first drive today. Way smoother than the redblock and good torque, should be a fun driver. Sounds great too.
It still has some things to sort out but I'll get to those eventually...running and driving feels like a big milestone.
doucheNozzle
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2009
- Location
- The Pitt, 15147
Sweet!
oldschoolvolvo
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2004
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
Some more details on the swap:
Running stock Motronic 4.4 from donor 97 960.
I re-located the necessary relays to a box next to ECU in pass footwell.
Thinned and re-wrapped stock harnesses.
OBD2 port works
Homer engine mount brackets + 240 right side mounts + spacer
Needed to space swaybar down by 1/4"
Removed power steering and a/c and re-located tensioner (6PK0915/5060360 serp belt)
Deeworks T5 adapter
*the shifter is ~2" more forward than with redblock, needed to trim front edge of shifter opening to allow shifter to engage 3rd / 5th gear
P80 single mass flywheel
850R 240mm pressure plate
Centerforce 281222 clutch disc
RAM 78130 release bearing + 260 clutch master
*this took some careful measuring to set up properly
Trimmed input retainer ~1/4"
Trimmed input shaft ~1/4"
6003-2RS pilot bearing
2pc driveshaft w/ 7/9 center carrier
Yoshifab carrier conversion bracket
Adapted a 240 B230 throttle cable
Stock 240 radiator
Dash temp sender in upper hose
Dayco 81011 lower rad hose
Dayco 81031 upper hose + section of 240 upper hose
AEM Dryflow filter
Adapted 960 head pipes into existing 2.5" Simons exhaust
There are 5x ECU fault codes...4x are for items I know are missing and one is a P0505 for the idle system. Seems to idle fine, but will need to dig into that further. There is also a driveline vibration at around 30mph...need to double check the angles, I think I know what might be going on here. T5 rattles are non-existent as far as I can tell, this is with a stock non-damped slip yoke. Looking forward to putting on some miles this summer.
Shoutout to broke4speed, Lankku, Appelsap, AnthonyHardy2 for answering my questions.
Photo dump:
Running stock Motronic 4.4 from donor 97 960.
I re-located the necessary relays to a box next to ECU in pass footwell.
Thinned and re-wrapped stock harnesses.
OBD2 port works
Homer engine mount brackets + 240 right side mounts + spacer
Needed to space swaybar down by 1/4"
Removed power steering and a/c and re-located tensioner (6PK0915/5060360 serp belt)
Deeworks T5 adapter
*the shifter is ~2" more forward than with redblock, needed to trim front edge of shifter opening to allow shifter to engage 3rd / 5th gear
P80 single mass flywheel
850R 240mm pressure plate
Centerforce 281222 clutch disc
RAM 78130 release bearing + 260 clutch master
*this took some careful measuring to set up properly
Trimmed input retainer ~1/4"
Trimmed input shaft ~1/4"
6003-2RS pilot bearing
2pc driveshaft w/ 7/9 center carrier
Yoshifab carrier conversion bracket
Adapted a 240 B230 throttle cable
Stock 240 radiator
Dash temp sender in upper hose
Dayco 81011 lower rad hose
Dayco 81031 upper hose + section of 240 upper hose
AEM Dryflow filter
Adapted 960 head pipes into existing 2.5" Simons exhaust
There are 5x ECU fault codes...4x are for items I know are missing and one is a P0505 for the idle system. Seems to idle fine, but will need to dig into that further. There is also a driveline vibration at around 30mph...need to double check the angles, I think I know what might be going on here. T5 rattles are non-existent as far as I can tell, this is with a stock non-damped slip yoke. Looking forward to putting on some miles this summer.
Shoutout to broke4speed, Lankku, Appelsap, AnthonyHardy2 for answering my questions.
Photo dump:
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Appelsap
New member
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2020
- Location
- Netherlands
Good Job!
If you have a b6304s2 then the earlier cams (204hp) are a great upgrade, wakes the engine up above 4000rpm.
I have got the same 30mph vibration lol, still need to fix that. Normally its hardly noticeable, but it gets worse with a trunk full of stuff. I measured the trans flange angle before I took out the engine. With new mounts it was 3 degrees down (m47).
P0505 could be a vac leak at the intake boots and check your fuel pressure regulator. Don't remember which, but one of the two types is prone to leaking through the vac hose.
If you have a b6304s2 then the earlier cams (204hp) are a great upgrade, wakes the engine up above 4000rpm.
I have got the same 30mph vibration lol, still need to fix that. Normally its hardly noticeable, but it gets worse with a trunk full of stuff. I measured the trans flange angle before I took out the engine. With new mounts it was 3 degrees down (m47).
P0505 could be a vac leak at the intake boots and check your fuel pressure regulator. Don't remember which, but one of the two types is prone to leaking through the vac hose.
DET17
Reformed SAABaholic
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2009
- Location
- NW Georgia
Excellent! Love the sweet song of that inline 6, just smooth by comparison to the bangers.
Couldn't see in your video, do you have an E-fan? Also did you say AC delete? That could come in handy during summer months.
Did you do an engine refresh (bearings, seals) or is it bone stock "as found"? Please take some pics of your T5 and show the shifter mounting details..... I'll be doing the same thing on my 242 which will get the T5 gear box (to start off).
Couldn't see in your video, do you have an E-fan? Also did you say AC delete? That could come in handy during summer months.
Did you do an engine refresh (bearings, seals) or is it bone stock "as found"? Please take some pics of your T5 and show the shifter mounting details..... I'll be doing the same thing on my 242 which will get the T5 gear box (to start off).
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