• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Matt's '88 780

Some new pix:

Whipped up a heat shield/mount for the cone filter
100_5420.jpg


And built an exhaust
100_5436.jpg


100_5437.jpg


100_5438.jpg


100_5440.jpg


100_5442.jpg


100_5444.jpg


I've only driven it around the block. I'm not overwhelmed with the power. Maybe I've been building it up in my mind, or I've forgotten how it ran before, but I sort of expected more. It runs a whole bunch better, no question, but there will be some tuning to do.
 
First off - thanks for posting this Matt. It's great to have you "around" and posting a bit. You're on another level than many here and I know the inherent difficulty with that is it can make this place frustrating at tmes.

Second off - amazing work. This is an awesome project and you are just the sort of detail oriented, meticulous guy to be able to pull off a B280 build, so good on ya.

Third off - and I have to ask ya know - so when do the turbos go on? :-P:lol:

:cheers:
 
Thanks boys. Making me feel welcome here!

Unloved surely, but I hope I'm doing my part to augment the frustrating lack of information on them. Once I work some kinks out of the new combination (like the non-functioning in-tank pump I just discovered) it should perk up some, and if I do pull off the M46 thing it could even be downright fun. It'll never have the torque curve and power potential of a turbo car, unless I turbo it of course, and don't count that remote possibility out. I think it's sturdy enough for some light boost, though I'm not crazy about 9.5:1 on a turbo car. Just have to accept that it's a project and not just a cruiser, then...
 
Ignition

Hi Matt, did you try to use diagnostic output from your ignition ecu?? I'm wondering if you'll have same issue with engine knocking at ~ 2000 rpm as me and tomass :)

btw I've done repair of my PRV a month ago, but your engine is little bit more colorful :) I didn't do any painting or shining on my block :oops:
 
No, I haven't noticed any knock at 2000, and all the piston tops looked like they've never seen a single detonation event. I would be interested in hearing about this "diagnostic output" you're talking about though!

I was just having a discussion about fuel quality & ignition settings with a local guy, and how I've never noticed a difference in running between 87 and 90 octane (RON+MON/2), and wondering if the advance trim pin grounding tricks on EZ116K will work with the EZ115K.

Any thoughts?
 
Really cool to see someone putting in the effort to keep the PRV engine:cool:
Very nice build, wonder what sort of hp numbers you can achieve.

Matt Dupuis said:
and if I do pull off the M46 thing it could even be downright fun.
Click to expand...

Had a M46 with B28E in my 760 and it was quick, shame for the engine + tranny combo is that it couldn't reach 60mph in 2nd gear. The torque was amazing, just floor it and away you go, no way my redblock can do that (with the same elegance).
 
Horsepower? I don't know. Without the European B280E cams, and I'd love to get my hands on a pair (hint hint!!!), I think 150 WHP or 180 at the crank would be a fair achievement. JL swears that a set of headers & exhaust is a "no BS 30 hp increase", and with the improved cylinder heads I hope to do better than the 146 crank that comes stock. I'm sure that one day this thing will get strapped down - we'll see what it does then. In a 3400 lb car and driving through an automatic, it's not going to be winning many races.
 
Nice.. i like the exhaust.
But don't you worries that the fixed exhaust to the car is gonna break? they do move. Of heat ant the vibration of the engine.
Very nice. i Dreaming of my own 780. but i want a 4 cylinder turbo instead ;)
 
I would, if it were fixed to the car anywhere. It's fixed to the transmission, which of course moves with the engine, and the bolts aren't tight enough to prevent the headers from moving around a little bit.
 
Matt Dupuis said:
Without the European B280E cams, and I'd love to get my hands on a pair (hint hint!!!), I think 150 WHP or 180 at the crank would be a fair achievement.
Click to expand...

I think the most powerful factory B280E had 177 crank hp, so if you carry on like this and find the cams you need you should make more I guess. I can always look for a pair of B280E cams, but these engines are becoming rare over here as well.
 
Matt Dupuis said:
No, I haven't noticed any knock at 2000, and all the piston tops looked like they've never seen a single detonation event. I would be interested in hearing about this "diagnostic output" you're talking about though!
Click to expand...
You won't notice anything by ears. You just can see an error diode flashing or notice how power starts sucking because timing retardation.. search in this document, complete ignition diagnostic.. http://www.scribd.com/doc/18821915/TP31397-1-700-Ignition-Incomplete


Matt Dupuis said:
I was just having a discussion about fuel quality & ignition settings with a local guy, and how I've never noticed a difference in running between 87 and 90 octane (RON+MON/2), and wondering if the advance trim pin grounding tricks on EZ116K will work with the EZ115K.
Click to expand...
I'm running on 95 (RON), and I want to try 98RON fuel...but since I'm also able to run on LPG (~RON 120) and engine is still knocking (true is, that ECU think, that engine is knocking).
I just solving another issue with occassional N.1 cylinder detector is not seen by ecu (new ignition cables with sensor, still same) so, this will have to wait....:cool:

BTW, I used exhaust pipes from Eagle Premiere and I think I can feel the performance improvement, so as your exhaust pipes should be better, you can have fairly over 200bhp if you get european cams :)
 
I read through that document, thank you for the link. I may have read through it before at home too, but I might not have this exact book because I don't recall any diagnostics in it. Interesting, though I don't know how you can detect anything beyond the presence of knock. The system won't tell you at what RPM it knocked or what the intensity of the knock was, or give you real-time information on when it knocks, correct? You're basing the ~2000 RPM knock events on seat-of-the-pants feel? Or did I miss something in the document?

I was hoping you were telling me that there was a way to somehow monitor things on-the-fly... Maybe there is and I should check out ecuproject.com to learn more?

Because it happens on LPG, it sounds like you're not knocking at all, but are registering some form of false knock. I have wondered about piston slap or wristpin knock, maybe timing chain noise or valvetrain noise, or even a combination of them all, setting off knock sensors. Maybe it's not even knock you're feeling, but a normal power loss due to some other event, an inefficiency hole in the various tuning forks (intake manifold runner length, camshaft duration and overlap mismatch, etc.) You've got the "global" 10.0:1 c/r, 170 hp motor, do you?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top