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Valvetrain Noise

JohnMc said:
The valvetrain operates at half engine speed, so any tick from the bottom end would happen twice as often as a valvetrain tick (if they're both singular).
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Correct of course, but there are 8 valve actuations and only 4 rod bearings. A rod knock typically happens to 1, not 4. And I assure you I've beat this car up enough that if it were bottom end related, it wouldn't run anymore.

culberro said:
Were/are you running valve hushers?
OHC redblocks run valve clearances that are about double what most OHC engines use. For example, DOHC Subaru engines use clearances of .007"-.010", and they are a direct acting bucket.

Could also be your fuel injectors. They sound very similar to excessive valve clearance.

Also, there is no reason to run a zinc additive or high-zinc oil on b21/23/230 engine. The shims are so large, the Volvo cams (and IPD) are so relaxed, and the valve springs are so weak. If you were using a flat tappet cam with little lobes, 1.5:1 ratio rocker arms, and valve spring force over 120lbs installed... then you'd want some zinc...
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Nope never ran hushers. They came out with the first cam swap and it was silent then.

I really don't know how I can make this any clearer to the audience that it is valve train related. I appreciate your guys' input but it is absolutely valve train related. Yes, promise ring is fuvking retarded to turbobricks so surely he's wrong:roll: but seriously, it is the valve train.
 
Just checked the lash again, ya know, "just in case" I was wrong and they were all way off.

They weren't way off.

iT7jIcW_d.jpg


And boy howdy, it's still spotless in there.
mB3LXF6_d.jpg
 
Big fan of the logic that an oil with a heavier weight at operating temperature "will have no effect on valvetrain noise". But somehow ZDDP is going to make everything whisper quiet.
 
woodenpudden said:
"aftermarket" or CRP?
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Probably aftermarket. Whatever they ship you when you buy them individually, that's what I did.
Stiggy Pop said:
Big fan of the logic that an oil with a heavier weight at operating temperature "will have no effect on valvetrain noise". But somehow ZDDP is going to make everything whisper quiet.
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:roll: get real. 5w-40 is absolutely fine. How do you think a 40 weight at operating temp is too thin? That's what you'd use to bandaid valvetrain noise:roll: :roll:
 
kyote said:
You sure ask a lot of questions for someone whose got it all figured out already IHVP... :-P
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I'm really just looking for insight and thoughts/discussions. The vehicle runs its ass off as good as a stock turbo car is going to. The only concern is the noise.

Everyone here seems to think valve hushers are going to fix it, or that they aren't adjusted properly. Or that the oil grade is wrong.

I've stated time and time again that all 8 are adjust WELL within spec, and I'm running a 40wt oil, and that the noise only began with new shims.

You guys can act like know-it-all's as much as you want, and I guarantee you're thinking that's what I'm doing too, but I'm really not. I don't get how everyone can make these wild a<z>ss assumptions/accusations.

Deductive reasoning is as follows (in case you all missed it the first 6 times)

Engine was quiet with stock cam
Engine was quiet with B cam
Engine was quiet with iPd turbo cam
Engine only began to tick after iPd shims were installed
Valve lash is adjusted properly. This isn't my first rodeo, any moron can adjust valve lash on these cars.

What I'm likely going to do is swap back to some junkyard shims that will allow lash to still be within spec, simply to prove myself correct.
 
iHateVolvoPeople said:
Probably aftermarket. Whatever they ship you when you buy them individually, that's what I did.
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Just curious. IPD has aftermarket no-name brand and CRP brand listed on the website, both sold as individual shims. If you know your lash is correct (you didn't answer Towery's question of where the lobe is pointing when you use a feeler, just sayin'), install hushers and go forth :twocents:
 
woodenpudden said:
Just curious. IPD has aftermarket no-name brand and CRP brand listed on the website, both sold as individual shims. If you know your lash is correct (you didn't answer Towery's question of where the lobe is pointing when you use a feeler, just sayin'), install hushers and go forth :twocents:
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I do each individual lobe facing it straight up, basically perpendicular to the shim.

I also checked lash by putting each individual cylinder at top dead center to where the two lobes were facing outward from each other and checked that way. It was slightly different but still within spec.

Why would the engine be quiet without hushers with the stock shims, but need hushers after adjusted properly? Genuine question, that makes no sense to me at all.
 
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