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Matt's 97 V90: The V9000+

The T6 is going slowly. Partly because skiing/snowboarding is expensive.

The manifold leaves a lot to be desired. I'll be bracing the living daylights out of it and hoping for the best. The port spacing is dead-on, so that's nice. It also appears to actually be stainless. Ultimately, I bought this because it was about 1/2 the price of materials to make one and it will serve as a reminder that I need to finish my engine.

Yeah, my car gets hit all the time. I stopped fixing it because it was just getting stupid. Every time I park my car in a space adjacent to another space it gets hit. I have to go around the block to find single parking places.

Soon I'll be moving and will have a garage. I can't wait to move my rolling tool box off the apartment balcony.
 
Silver said:
After going through about 5 aluminum oxide disks on a single lens and not being happy with the finished product, I opted to work smarter rather than harder.

I ebay'd some diamond disks and whipped up a nice little water swivel for my drill press. This new rig works much better.

WP_000358.jpg


Broke one lens with a bit too much heat after I spun all the water out on my apartment balcony. The whole thing needs to be run in Rubbermaid tub.
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Have you a link of said disks?
 
It makes a difference is rather short time. Just mix it into a slurry in a squeeze bottle and get messy.



I used this with a 3" pad for better control.
 
Silver said:
No, I was using aluminum oxide powder for a while but it didn't work very well. I'll have to check that out.
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educate me. What were You using for why? :wtf:

I'm still scared to of this glass defluting stuff. Wish there were plastic lenses for these cars...
 
It's used for etching glass. Other TB members have used it for defluting (if I remember correctly). Based on those two data points I figured it would work pretty well.

The problem was that it settles very quickly. Whatever wheel/disk I was using would throw the aluminum oxide out from underneath it and the stuff would just settle to the bottom of the lens. I couldn't keep it lifted in the water for long enough to be effective.
 
Another thing, you don't need to grind that much down. You only need a 2" wide by 3" tall section depending on how close the projector is to the glass.

You can sort of see what I'm talking about here:

 
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