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Mazda RX7 Series II turbo caliper adaptors for Volvo 240

Nick said:
I was just trying to clarify, dont flip out man. I know what materials and workmanship cost, and this is a good value considering the 129 is in aussie dollars. I guess I should rephrase: are there any other specific parts required that come in the kit?
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To answer your question, the conversion is a relatively simple one, ie. you'll need to block two ports in your distribution block, source pads and discs (we can also supply ATE or Brembo slotted discs and EBC pads), source your own calipers (which are usually cheaper in the US) and either run no backing plate or modify your existing one (we can also supply ducted backing plates to suit). In addition to that we'd recommend using high-tensile fasteners (we can supply these too)

For simplicitys sake, what you'd be buying is caliper adaptors only. Included would also be a shopping list of additional components required.

I would think that including bolts would increase postage costs (due to weight) and I'd think that purchasing bolts locally in the US would be significantly cheaper than the additional cost of us supplying you bolts and the increase in postage.

eg. Recently we were unable to source longer wheel bolts for an 850. The freight cost alone of having 10 bolts sent from the US was $108 USD!!! Pricing was nearly the same for freight from various suppliers.
 
RX7 Calipers mounted

Here are some pics of the calipers and brackets mounted to a strut tube.

mazbrak2.jpg


1/ strut tube, caliper, adaptor, ducted backing plate and short solid brake line.

mazbrak3.jpg


2/ Back. strut tube, strut tube-mounted swaybar link, ducted backing plate, adaptor, caliper, and short solid brake line.

mazbrak4.jpg


3/ A better view of the strut tube-mounted swaybar link (accomodates bars between 21mm and 27mm)/

mazbrak5.jpg


4/ And another...

mazbrak6.jpg


5/ Complete assembly sans rotor and hub.
 
have your thought of not running a hardpipe to the strut so that if you need to remove strut you dont' need to disconnect the caliper.

maybe a hose holder on the strut so you can clip the rubber hose to it.
 
ravennexus said:
have your thought of not running a hardpipe to the strut so that if you need to remove strut you dont' need to disconnect the caliper.

maybe a hose holder on the strut so you can clip the rubber hose to it.
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Thats a very good idea Raven, hadnt previously crossed my mind. I might have a play with that idea on the weekend.

Cheers,
Ash
 
mikep said:
You shouldn't need more than a 21mm bar or a 25mm hollow bar with that linkage.

Looks very nice. I need some of those clamps.
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I'll probably try it out with the following bars I have lying around, just for comparisons sake -
21mm, 23mm, 24mm, 26mm and 27mm

I'm leaning towards keeping the 23mm I'm currently using with the stock style (albeit adjustable) setup.
 
23mm would be good. I just recalculated the MR^2 for a 240 as .46, and you will only lose .03 or so with the direct mount (from the angle of the strut).
In other words, you double the effectiveness of the bar by moving the attachment point from the control arm to the strut.
 
Thats a great looking setup. I especially like the backing plates w/ venting. Has anyone got a running car w/ these brakes that can comment on how well they perform? Any stopping distance numbers? Also, whats the estimated time before you'll be ready to sell these?
​
 
likely stopping distances wont' change much as such things are dependant on tyre grip and such what should change is short term repeatability, IE how soon you can repeat that 100mph to 20 stop due to the bigger disk area for heat abosrbtion/disipation.
 
ravennexus said:
likely stopping distances wont' change much as such things are dependant on tyre grip and such what should change is short term repeatability, IE how soon you can repeat that 100mph to 20 stop due to the bigger disk area for heat abosrbtion/disipation.
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Exactly right. I'd say distances will improve but more importantly you'll be able to brake at the same point for more laps.

Nick said:
Thats a great looking setup. I especially like the backing plates w/ venting. Has anyone got a running car w/ these brakes that can comment on how well they perform? Any stopping distance numbers? Also, whats the estimated time before you'll be ready to sell these?
Click to expand...

We dont have stopping distance numbers yet, but I'll post them when we do.

Brackets are available for sale now, although we've just sold out of our first run. We'll have more finished late next week.

Backing plates are made to order. You can order these now also.

Brackets are also sold with a 'shopping list' of required parts for the conversion. You can buy the associated parts from us or from your side of the pond (this may be a better idea to reduce freight costs, etc).

Further details on what we sell are available from www.dvs.net.au and there will be more details on the website soon.
 
mikep said:
In other words, you double the effectiveness of the bar by moving the attachment point from the control arm to the strut.
Click to expand...
:omg::omg::omg: Wow. So are these swaybar adapters just using stock 240 bars with the ends cut off so they'll fit through that hole? Or are they some sort of universal custom bar? That's pretty awesome either way.

PS Ash your website doesn't seem to be working at the moment.
 
I gotta say, the strut mounted swaybar endlink is baddass.
Seriously man kickass.
 
The Aspirator said:
:omg::omg::omg: Wow. So are these swaybar adapters just using stock 240 bars with the ends cut off so they'll fit through that hole? Or are they some sort of universal custom bar? That's pretty awesome either way.

PS Ash your website doesn't seem to be working at the moment.
Click to expand...

You actually shouldnt need to even cut the end off the stock bar, obviously you wont use the existing 'eye' for mounting but the swaybar clamp is a two-piece design, and bolts up around the swaybar.
They're not for sale just yet but all being well it probably wont be too far away.

We had this setup on my dads '93 240 wagon for about a week or so with a 24mm front swaybar. Initially it was setup on too aggresive an angle with the car wanting to steer itself when going over bumps in the road, but we moved the clamp backwards on the car (in the direction of the rear).

We removed the setup to revise the bracket on the strut tube which made a nice improvement.

However, this may be an over-complicated method of going about it all. You could weld a bracket with a series of holes in it to the end of the swaybar itself, and then run a heim-jointed link to this bracket, adjustability could be achieved by shortening/lengthening the link and moving along the various holes in the bracket.

I think Mikes Corolla had this setup on the rear swaybar.

As for the website, not sure why it wasnt working. appears to be ok now though.
www.dvs.net.au
 
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Captain Bondo said:
I gotta say, the strut mounted swaybar endlink is baddass.
Seriously man kickass.
Click to expand...

Thanks. It's waterjet cut 25mm thick aluminium.
The cost of waterjet cutting is horrifying, so we'll have to find another solution if these become an item we'll sell.
 
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